friend Vicki suggested we go surfing while I was out there. Knowing
me, I'm all game for whateva.
We were supposed to leave at 6am but I slept in so we didn't end up
leaving till like 11am. Found out later that this was a better time
than 6am.
We drove down to the ocean and got there close to 1pm. After renting
some suits and the boards, we took off to the water.
The waves were hitting the shore hard and we had to strategize on how
to get in the water. We swam to the deep parts of the ocean trying to
find the perfect waves. The water was sooo cold that my foot was
frozen the whole time in the water.
I must say this though. Surfing takes alot of skill, strength and
stamina. After finding some good waves to surf the hard part was
trying to swim back to the middle of the ocean and not getting wiped
out by the coming waves.
We surfed for close to 4 hours. It still seems like a dream because it
was like nothing else I've ever done. So many times I was sure that
this was it. I will die by drowning lol. But luckily I had a good
teacher and it was well worth it.
Overall, visiting San Francisco has been my best trip overall thus
far :-)
-Ace Black
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